Telluride! For us, it’s unequivocally our favorite ski resort. Nestled in the remote southwestern corner of Colorado, far from bustling cityscapes and congested airports, Telluride offers an unparalleled blend of challenging terrain, breathtaking scenery, and an authentic ski culture that draws enthusiasts from across the globe. This review is based on numerous visits, spanning from favorable to exceptional snow conditions, allowing for a comprehensive perspective.
Telluride Mountain Stats
| Metric | Value | Rank (out of North American Resorts) |
|---|---|---|
| Real Vertical | 3,845 feet (1,172 meters) | 7th |
| Skiable Acreage | 2,000 acres (809 hectares) | 44th |
| Average Annual Snowfall | 276 inches (701 cm) actual (309″ claimed) | 57th |
| Number of Ski Pods | 10 | 20th |
| Number of Trails | 125 | 22nd |
| Review Date | March 2015 (multiple visits 1978-2021) | |
| Number of Visits | 5+ | |
| Our Rating | ★★★★★ | |
| Resort Website | Telluride Ski Resort Official Website |
Telluride Ski Resort: A Deep Dive Review
Our shared Telluride journey began in March 2015, but my personal history with this mountain stretches back to its early days in the 1970s. Having witnessed its evolution from a quirky, under-the-radar ski hill to the world-class destination it is today has been remarkable. The 2014-15 season was particularly generous with snowfall, with several feet of fresh powder blanketing the resort just prior to our trip. This initial experience cemented our love for Telluride, and we’ve since made the trek back countless times.
Accommodation Options: Village vs. Town of Telluride
When planning a ski trip to Telluride, choosing your lodging is key. Due to its remote location, staying in or very near Telluride is virtually essential. Your primary choices are the Mountain Village, perched on a mesa above the town and linked by a free, scenic gondola operating until late into the night, or the historic Town of Telluride nestled in the valley below. Conveniently, lifts access the slopes from both locations, eliminating morning congestion.
Both the Village and the Town boast a wide array of dining and après-ski options. However, for a more vibrant nightlife and a taste of authentic Telluride charm, Main Street in the Town is the place to be. An evening gondola ride up to the Village offers breathtaking night views of the twinkling town lights and the majestic surrounding peaks – a truly unforgettable experience.
Groomed Slopes and Mogul History
In its nascent years, during the 70s and 80s, Telluride earned a reputation as a mogul mecca, largely due to the limitations of grooming technology at the time. The front-side runs descending into town were notoriously bumpy and infrequently skied, deemed too steep for the grooming equipment of the era.
Fast forward to today, and Telluride’s grooming capabilities are state-of-the-art. Many of those once ungroomed, steep front-side runs now benefit from snowmaking and meticulous grooming. Coonskin, accessible directly from the gondola, became one of our go-to runs for early morning laps. Its location, slightly removed from the main Village-bound traffic, often means fewer crowds, making it a hidden gem even on busier days.
Exploring the Village Side Terrain
The majority of Telluride’s skiable terrain resides on the Village side. Most skiers gravitate towards the three main intermediate lifts: Polar Queen Express, Village Express, and Prospect Bowl Express. Among these, Prospect Bowl Express offers the most challenging intermediate terrain. While these lifts and runs are solid, they might not stand out as exceptionally unique compared to other major Colorado resorts. This highlights a characteristic of Telluride: its terrain tends to be either very steep or relatively flat. For purely intermediate skiers seeking varied terrain, resorts like Copper Mountain or Vail might offer a broader appeal.
Beginner Skiing at Telluride
For beginner skiers, Telluride is surprisingly well-equipped. Sunshine Express and the Chondola are ideal for novices. While Sunshine does have some runs labeled intermediate, they lean towards the easier end of the spectrum. For beginners, however, these lifts unlock a wealth of gentle slopes, arguably more extensive beginner terrain than found at the average large resort. For advanced or intermediate skiers, these areas are best suited for leisurely cruising or warm-up runs.
Upper Mountain Lifts: The Expert’s Playground
For seasoned skiers, the real allure of Telluride lies in its upper mountain lifts and terrain. Each of these lifts grants access to at least one steep, impeccably groomed run. Gold Hill Express, while offering See Forever to Woosley’s Way as a more mellow option, primarily serves double-black diamond terrain.
Gold Hill Express: Chutes and Challenges
The terrain off Gold Hill Express is consistently steep and often wind-affected. However, this wind can also be your ally, depositing pockets of deep snow in the sheltered chutes. While exposed areas can be windswept and scoured, Gold Hill remains a highlight of the Telluride experience. The installation of a high-speed quad here, despite the limited number of easily accessible lines for average advanced skiers in typical conditions, was a game-changer, enhancing access to this legendary terrain.
Venturing further to the skier’s right on Gold Hill unveils even steeper pitches, demanding extreme caution even in late season conditions. For the truly intrepid experts, a hike to the 13,320-foot summit of Palmyra Peak unlocks even more extreme chutes.
I’ve personally tackled the hike to the slightly lower Gold Hill Chutes once. Taking my time, the ascent to Chute #9 took approximately 45 minutes. The resort has installed stairs and walkways to aid the climb, which, to be honest, I found quite intimidating! Reaching the entry point requires a precarious ski-on, followed by a plunge into seriously steep chutes. This is truly legendary terrain, offering an unforgettable experience for those prepared for the hike and extreme slopes.
Apex Lift: Steep Groomers and Throwback Terrain
Apex lift offers some surprisingly steep double-blue groomers. Interestingly, back in the 80s, all runs in this area were designated black diamond. Improved snowmaking and grooming techniques have likely led to a re-evaluation, making some of this terrain accessible to advanced intermediates. While enjoyable, the groomed runs off Apex are arguably overshadowed by the offerings on Revelation.
Revelation Bowl: High Altitude and Deep Snow
Revelation Bowl, the most recent expansion at Telluride, culminates at an impressive lift-served elevation of 12,570 feet – the highest on the mountain. This partially groomed bowl often holds exceptional quality, deep snow, sheltered from harsh winds. While incredibly popular, the terrain’s steepness can sometimes challenge skiers beyond their abilities, leading to the occasional “slide for life.” The popularity of Revelation Bowl arguably warrants a high-speed quad upgrade to minimize lift lines.
The Plunge Lift: Home of Legendary Groomers
The Plunge lift at Telluride is, in our opinion, the crown jewel of lifts across any resort we’ve reviewed. Until the 2022-23 season, it was a slow, fixed-grip triple, but it provided access to the three best steep groomers we’ve ever encountered. Bushwacker was a particular favorite. The panoramic views of the town and surrounding San Juan Mountains from these runs are simply breathtaking, bordering on surreal. Finally, as of the 2022-23 season, The Plunge has been upgraded to a high-speed quad! This long-awaited upgrade to one of the mountain’s most beloved lifts significantly improves access to this exceptional terrain.
On-Mountain Dining
Telluride’s on-mountain lodges are undeniably impressive architecturally. While we can’t offer extensive insight into the food quality, our preference leans towards the numerous independent eateries in the Mountain Village for lunch. Another excellent option is to ski directly into the Town of Telluride, where a plethora of dining choices are conveniently located near the gondola base. The on-mountain restaurants often appear crowded, and some may require reservations. We did try Big Billie’s cafeteria at the base of the Chondola once, but found it unremarkable – a typical ski school cafeteria experience with standard resort fare.
A Testament to Telluride’s Magic
During one memorable Plunge lift ride, we met a local legend – a skier who has skied every single day of every season since the 1970s, only missing a couple of days due to a brief hospital stay. He was a well-known figure, even featured in the local magazine. His dedication epitomizes the allure of Telluride – a place so captivating that a lifetime of skiing there still leaves you wanting more. This enduring appeal is precisely why Telluride holds the top spot on our list.
The Upsides of Telluride
- World-Class Steep Groomers: Home to arguably the best steep groomed runs on the planet.
- Unrivaled Scenery: The most visually stunning resort in the United States.
- Top-Tier Terrain Variety and Quality: Boasting the best overall terrain in North America.
- Charming Colorado Ski Town: An authentic and picturesque mountain town experience.
- Exceptional Grooming: Consistently well-maintained slopes.
- Significant Vertical Drop: Offering long, leg-burning runs.
The Downsides of Telluride
- Less Snow Than Some Colorado Resorts: May receive slightly less snowfall compared to resorts further north.
- High Cost: Everything in Telluride, particularly lodging, tends to be expensive.
- Difficult Accessibility: Remote location makes it challenging to reach.
- Polarized Terrain: Terrain largely skews towards very steep or very flat, with a relative lack of true intermediate-focused runs.
Our Verdict: Will We Return to Telluride?
Considering Telluride reigns supreme as our top-rated resort, a return visit is not just likely – it’s a given! We’ve even entertained fantasies of owning a condo in the Village to maximize our time here. While that dream remains on hold for now, we’ll continue to make pilgrimages to Telluride whenever possible.
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